Wednesday, October 14, 2009

Mombasa - Tanga - Dar es Salaam

Hello again from Z
Have had many full days and late nights so couldn't keep my eyes open long enough to update the blog the last couple of nights [yes, yes, for those of you who know me well, I know it's hard to believe that I couldn't stay awake :) ]  It's the sun, and, temperaturs in the mid 80s ..... mmmm

Spent most of the last day in Mombasa at the  resort in Bamburi between the beach and the pool.  Mehboob and his son Husein also spent the day with us.  Went into town in the evening for dinner to a well known Indian restaurant that has been in operation for ever.  The only difference is that the menu has now expanded from a single line 'Dinner' which meant only one choice - khima curry (ground lamb curry) to 4 pages of appetizers, entres, vegetarian, non-veg, desserts, drinks, etc.  That's what I call progress!!!!  On our way to the restaurant we stopped by the light house where, even today, street vendors line up along the ocean front and crowds of people fill the area, walking around and eating sekelo mogo and sekeli makai (cassava and corn on the cob roasted over open fire).  Thoroughtly enjoyed the food and the atmosphere.  An african street performer sang a couple of indian songs for us (can you believe that??).  Got that on video.

Another interesting sight was just across from the indian restaurant, a crowd of people had gathered, those in the front seated and those at the back standing, all focused on ... guess what....?  A tiny television screen.  What entrepreneurship.  The owner of the TV had set up a little roadside cinema. 

Reena gave you an account of our bus ride from Mombasa to Tanga and our time in Tanga.  It was amazing to see how Vinod remembered every detail of the streets, who lived where and who had their business where and what building existed in the past which now has been replaced by something else, .....  Met his friends and relatives. 

The ride with Zahur from Tanga to Dar was certainly very entertaining.  Zahur's brother, Salim Bhanji, who we know very well in Toronto (Fateh, apparently he is good friends with you), is a stand-up comedian and a great singer.  I guess the talent runs in the family.  We had picked up kababs and bhajias from the Blue Room in Tanga for our journey.  We stopped half way (before Chalinze) by a road-side village kiosk, under the shade of trees, to have our snacks and sodas.  We talked to little african kids there and the store keeper - mama rita (mother of Rita) that is what their identity is once they become a parent - was so hospitable, she even offered to open the church hall and get us some benches for us to sit on.  Of course, we refused as we needed to stand for a while and stretch before getting into the car again for another 3-4 hours. Before leaving, we gave the kids money and some goodies (cookies and chips) that we had with us. You should have seen how happy the kids and the mother were.  AND, before we knew it, we were surrounded by kids - don't know where they came from.  Maybe they fell from the trees.  How did they get the news???  Probably CELL PHONES.

The first impression approaching Dar - "Where did all these cars come from?" and, of course, the tuk tuks (auto rikshas).   Arrived at Shaffin's place at 4:30 pm to an electricity rationing day.  With the drought they've had, once a week there is no electricity from 6 am to 11:30 pm.  We had chai and bhajias with Azmina and Suhail (their son) and the4 5 of us sat and chatted for hourse - well into true darkness.  We lit candlees and continued until Shaffin came home.  Got caught up with him then showered and got ready - all under candle light, and went out for dinner and drive through the city.  Also spent today re-living the old times, showing Reena all the places that she often hears us talk about.  Anch, tell your dad, we passed by the store where he had his laundry. 

Dar es Salaam has grown and modernized.  There is nothing we can say that we have and they don't.  You can now buy everything - local and imported - as long as you have money.  Based on the value of currency here now, I can say I spent about 50,000 today.  I can also say I am a billionaire (at least for the next week or so).  Unlike Nairobi, which is all gated and guarded and deserted at night, Dar is open, and warm and busy and fun all the time.  People are out at night, walking around, eating and enjoying themselves - just like the old days.  Many of the old restaurants we used to go to - Mermaid Fish and Chips, the sekela chicken place across etc, are no longer there but there are many other similar new places and roadside choma nyama (bbq) vendors.  The one and only Snow Cream ice-cream place has now moved from its original place near Avalon cinema to a different place (can't remember the street), and there are half a dozen other ice-cream places - we went to one last night.  For those of you who know Dar dearly, we went to Oyster Bay and ate mogo (cassava), viazi tamu (yams), makai (roasted corn on the cob), kitale bateta (young coconut filled with boiled, partly mashed potatoes and chilli/coconut chutney), and, of course, coconuts, mmmmh yummy. That was our lunch.  Later in the evening we went to the famous K Tea Shop and had kababs, samosas, mandazi and, of course, their famous chai.  It's all still the same. 

With beautiful hotels, shopping centres, condos and villas along the ocean and in the city, you now see a blend of very old and interesting arabian architecture along with modern, western architecture all interspersed, giving it a different charm.  The local market was very interesting - bought some of their art work and crafts. 

Leaving for Zanzibar early in the morning for a couple of days.  Will not be taking the laptop so you'll get more updates when we get back to Dar.  Will load more pictures when we get back as it is almost 1:00 am and I must get some sleep.  Have to be up at 6 am.

3 comments:

  1. Happy Diwali Guys and Saal Mubarak! Sounds like you guys are having a great time! We miss you lots!
    Love you all,
    Anisha

    ReplyDelete
  2. Hi Zeechohan,
    I am in search of the address of the Blue Room Cafe in Tanga. You wrote that you had those yummie kakabs....Any idea how I can contact them? I did not find the address through the net - just YOU!
    Looking forward to hearing from you,
    have a wonderful continuation of your trip,
    Barbara

    ReplyDelete
  3. I will get the address of Blue Room and post it here in the next few days.
    Zee

    ReplyDelete